Over 30 Towns We Loved in North Carolina
Some of the Best Towns in North Carolina
From the Crystal Coast to mountains shrouded in smoke, two-thousand miles later, my trip across North Carolina was complete. Driving all day, I watched the landscape change from the familiar suburbs of New York and the industry of Jersey, to the flat farmlands of Delaware. As I bobbed up and down across the Delaware Memorial Bridge with the cool air blowing off the water, I got my first premonitions of the Carolina coast.
Upon my arrival in the Outer Banks, I headed straight for the beach. A couple of families were lingering together on the mostly empty shore. As the swollen red sun slipped down the horizon two small boys played in the surf at their feet, chasing each other and jumping at the breaking waves. A little girl was playing tag with the tide, running to the edge and up again as the foam approached her feet. Mom and Dad, Aunt and Uncle were reading books, occasionally pausing to referee from the side lines. They looked like they found the peace they sought when they left for vacation. I enjoyed the feeling of the fine white sand between my toes before I jumped into the bracing waves. The cold, salty water replaced hours of sweat, smog and traffic, swallowing my fatigue whole, and leaving nothing behind. Feeling refreshed and hungry, I got out of the water and headed back to Route 158, which makes up the major transit and commercial artery of the Outer Banks.
Sitting at a restaurant bar, I got my first taste of southern hospitality via a free order of wings, courtesy of a kitchen mistake. Regardless of the cause I was ecstatic with the outcome, and as I dropped discarded bones into the plate before me I wondered why this never happens up north. Where does all of the mistake food go?
Although it was a Wednesday night, the place was still full of laughter, shouted orders, and the smells of simmering food. A mix of ages and ethnicities filled the place with a jovial atmosphere where the only way you might stand out is if you spent the night without a smile. As I pushed the wings away and started another beer, a couple of Jimmy Buffet types began to play on the small stage in the corner of the restaurant. On their guitar and bass, they plucked out beach standbys that were ample desert after my long day.
I fell to sleep that night with the sounds of chirping insects and croaking of frogs mixing with falling water across broad leaves. The rain began slow at first and then grew heavier, as the heat of the day broke against the cool night air, bringing with it peals of thunder which echoed in my dreams. Morning came with hazy skies as the sun melted away the night's clouds. I headed south along the coast starting at Kitty Hawk and moving through the similar towns of Kill Devil Hills and Nags Head, on NC-158. The road was a straight-shot and already busy early in the morning. Along the sides, were many beach wear and surf shops and plenty of family amusement centers specializing in mini-golf or go-carts. Older bungalows mixed with the newer development along NC-12 which runs parallel to 158 a bit closer to the beach. Before long, 158 turned towards Manteo and the mainland and I hopped onto route 12 to continue south.
To the left, across fields of ocean grass and marshes was the ocean. To the right were looming sand dunes with people dotted across the tops. Here, in proximity to the place where man first learned to fly, Kitty Hawk, are advertisements for hang glider lessons. Pelicans and other sea birds floated endlessly on waves of hot air rising from the land. Driving south with the wind whipping through the car, staring out across the flats and fields, I found little reason to question the Wright Brothers choice of location for their maiden voyage, or with people's continued fascination with this area. The Outer Banks seemed an area where the land lubber may find a bit of the beach bum in him or herself, and just about anyone could be content to spend a while lost in the salt and sand. I got as far south as the black and white striped Bodine Lighthouse before having to turn around. Leaving the area to head west, I knew I’d return sometime later on to visit again.
Moving from Kitty Hawk and the Banks, I drove north and then west along 158, towards Elizabeth City. The road was two lanes and most of the way it was nearly deserted. Old barns dotted the side of the road, broken down or burned out. Held up by vines that spread through the frames, holding up what was left of the buildings even as they overtook them. The air stayed cool and tinged with the smell of salt as I moved through the land which was still bordered by the ocean and bays.
Elizabeth City is located near the Albermarle Sound, right on the Pasquotank River. Boats bobbed in the water, resting in their slips along the edges of the town. The water was a deep sparkling blue, with stands of trees rising up in spots like buoys. The town was quite busy in the middle of the day, deliveries were being made, people were heading to restaurants during their lunch break. A popular place was the relaxing City Wine Seller… a wine and cheese shop with a Boar's Head Deli where art covers the walls and there is live music on the weekends.
Getting back on 158, I pointed the car west towards Edenton and then south on 17. The road became more rural as I passed farm upon farm, refineries and endless fields of low, clinging tobacco. The town of Edenton was smaller than Elizabeth City and consisted of one main road that dropped into the downtown, with several smaller roads that intersected, finally ending at the water front docks which had free hosting for visiting vessels. Although Edenton was smaller than Elizabeth City, I got the sense that it was an up and coming community as well.
The top of the commercial strip had all of the standards in regards to fast food and commercial chain businesses, but the downtown was unique in its appeal. It was small and homey with trees lining the sidewalks in planters and colorful buildings housing the shops. Edenton showed pride in its history from the statue that overlooks the harbor to the canons that remind residents and visitors of a once necessary means of protection. As I walked through the downtown, I noticed several new restaurants and shops opening up. They were all specialty restaurants, far from the themed restaurants at the top of the strip. I had lunch at Sean's Restaurant, feasting on a platter of shrimp fried rice, consisting of organic brown rice, lima beans, snow peas, carrots, water cress, small string beans and plenty of local bay shrimp. Sharing the restaurant with me were two local developers, giving more evidence to the economic growth coming to the area. While eating I was able to watch the road from the window. A local farmer pulled up in his truck bringing watermelons and peaches into the restaurant. As he was leaving, a woman bought a cantaloupe out of the back of the truck while his dog looked on from the cab.
I left the restaurant with the intention to continue on, but wound up lost on the country roads that surround the town. Even with the help of a local map, I found myself on roads that weren't listed, and merged with one another like a snake eating itself. The roads continued to turn and wrap around each other like a maze, with the fields growing high around me until I became convinced that someone would find me weeks later, a dried husk, and shake their head solemnly, “We loose more tourists this way than any other. Why don't they just stay on the main roads?” Luckily for me at a four way intersection, I happened upon a young man and his girlfriend out for a walk. After consulting each other for some time, and weighing the pros and cons of each of the three options that I had before me, they sent me to the left and from there I found my way out. Throughout the trip I was stunned by how quickly a person could leave the main areas and become utterly lost, surrounded by roads with no signs, decaying farms, and rising dirt. While development may be coming to the cities, I felt that many of the surrounding areas will be a bit longer to feel the effects of suburbanization, which is good or bad depending on your point of view. Once I saw the main road again, I looked to the sky and gave thanks and headed for the familiar interstate.
From Edenton I picked up I-40 and headed west, planning to stay outside of Raleigh. As I left the coast the air changed, becoming hotter and more humid. Immediately I missed the ocean breezes that had helped to keep me cool during the past days. I easily found my way to Falls Lake State Park, where I was able to cool off in clean waters, just a stone's throw from the city.
The next morning I woke up and headed into Raleigh to walk around and get a feel for the place. Getting into the city was a guessing game. The highways circle the center of the city creating a beltway like Washington D.C. and Baltimore. I found navigating this beltway to be quite confusing as the roads didn't seem to travel in the directions that the signs indicated. In addition the road was very busy which didn't help matters. Getting into the city with a sigh, I headed to the business district which is located in the center of the city. The central downtown and business district is made up of a dense cluster of high rise buildings. Surrounding this area is a series of many one way streets. After a bit of driving in circles, I found myself in the southwest corner of the city, which is part of the arts, restaurants, and entertainment district. Parking was readily available and not expensive, either on the street or in parking garages. A couple of parks lined the roads and there was a larger central park where a few people were hanging out in. Also in the area were many cafes and bars to sample from, the Pour House is a favorite among young locals with daily drink specials and live music.
From Raleigh, I drove southwest to Cary. Now, Cary is known as the center for relocated Yankees. I didn't see any, but maybe that's just because they weren't wearing their signs. As it is only about twenty-five minutes from Raleigh, Cary serves as a great home for commuters. Cary is a small town, with a Mainstreet of stores with an intersecting street that has some business activity as well. A couple of the buildings had murals on their brick walls depicting scenes from the past… Model T's skirting through cobbled streets, men in top hats and ladies in petticoats. Most of the shops were small and quaint. A gourmet deli sat on one corner and a pharmacy with a lunch counter called Ashworth's was on another. I headed into Ashworth's for lunch and got a barbecue sandwich. The sauce was authentic Eastern Carolina Barbecue, made with a vinegar base rather than a tomato base. Next to me was a long time citizen of Cary, Gus. Just about everyone who walked into the store greeted him by name and I wondered how long he had been sitting there.
With lunch finished, I left the Ashworth’s and Gus' warm company, heading into Apex about twenty minutes down the road. I felt as though this would be were I would live if I were to commute into Raleigh everyday. Only forty-five minutes from Raleigh, Apex has a much larger selection of services than Cary's small downtown. Apex's commercial district is made up of a long strip of shopping centers, and residential communities set back from the road. The centers held everything from Applebee's and Chili's, to small Greek and Thai restaurants, and bakeries. The residential communities were recently built, well maintained, and adequately insulated from the sound and bustle of the street. I continued through the commercial area and turned left to enter the downtown historic district. Although it was made up of only one street, I found some great potential there. There were many people walking up and down the length of the road, popping in and out of the many boutiques, galleries and curio shops that lined the street. Several of the downtown buildings had recently changed hands and were undergoing renovations to turn them into higher end restaurants. With the wealth of commercial businesses and a prevalent, protected historic downtown section I immediately felt that Apex was a great place to be.
During my research for this trip I had learned of the Belle Chere Festival in Asheville. An annual event, the Belle Chere attracts over 300,000 people from all over the country. A large portion of the city is closed off and six stages are set up, showcasing music of all types. People walk from stage to stage, on roads filled with booths of crafts, exhibits, and more. The ride along I-40, to get there, was magical. Bordering the road were great fields of trees covered in broad leaved vines giving the road a prehistoric feel. Before long, I had passed the exits for Winston-Salem and then Hickory. The mountains began to rise on the horizon spotted with misty clouds that whispered across their peaks. Entering the Pisgah National Forest, I began to climb the first set of mountains that surround Asheville. As I rose in elevation the air began to cool again, reminding me of the shore I had left behind days before at the Outer Banks.
Approaching Asheville, I was surprised by how little traffic there was and thought I might have gotten my dates confused. Upon entering the city, I realized that I hadn't. Even though the festival areas were packed, the surrounding parts of the city were surprisingly accessible. I was able to find parking easily and proceeded to approach the town on foot.
Asheville turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. Regardless of the festival going on, I could easily tell what a great town Asheville was. As the largest city in Western North Carolina, Asheville serves as an artistic and cultural center for the surrounding areas. This fact was asserted through the prevalence of art galleries, a diverse selection of restaurants and the huge number of people I met who had moved to Asheville from points far and wide. The result is a melting pot town, filled with tolerance of all points of view and a friendly atmosphere to visitor and resident alike. Because many of the residents remember a time when they too where just visiting, they are quick to welcome a newcomer. Asheville, with its warm people, great climate, architectural beauty, and streets that wind up and down small hills and curves, feels more like a big neighborhood than a city, a place easy to call home.
The next day it was a bit of a heartbreak to watch Asheville recede in my rear view mirror. Luckily for me I would spend the day in some other beautiful towns in the surrounding area, each with their own charms and attractions. The first towns I saw were Chimney Rock and Lake Lure. Lake Lure was rather small, just about a street long on the way to Chimney Rock, but its majestic lake captures your attention! With its great proximity to Chimney Rock, the two towns could almost be considered the same. Chimney Rock is named for the rock formations that shadow the town, forming a state park where visitors can ascend the top of the rock via elevator, stairs, or trails that wind along countless waterfalls and streams. I opted for the stairs and looked out over the valley and the impressive Lake Lure. The town of Chimney Rock was very cute and homey. It was obvious that one of their mainstays is the tourism industry. There were a couple of gem mining facilities that panned water taken from the creek at the base of the park entrance, jewelry shops and country stores specializing in syrups and apple products. There were a couple of restaurants that overlook the river flowing at the base of the park, and a general store. Life here has a certain tranquility we all yearn for.
From Chimney Rock and Lake Lure, I drove to Hendersonville. Hendersonville benefits from being just about due south from Asheville, along I-26. Given such a prime location, I was not surprised when I found a bustling town of good size, not too big, set up in an easy to navigate grid system. It seemed as though Hendersonville had picked up on many of the themes that made Asheville so appealing. There were many artistic venues to pursue, as well as a higher variety of services and restaurants than I had found in other parts of the state. I saw every type of restaurant, from good old down south Barbecue, to the NY Burrito Shop. There were many goldsmiths and jewelry shops, vintage shops, and galleries. One of the nicest parts of Hendersonville was the fund raising program of displaying painted sculpted bears in different colored thematic schemes based on the business that had sponsored the bear. There are over thirty bears in the town, and I have seen similar efforts practiced in other towns in North and South Carolina. Hendersonville also exuded a family atmosphere where parents aren't afraid to let their kids hang out in the downtown area after school.
Navigating the serpentine Route 64, I found myself in Brevard. Although the town itself was small, there was a good amount of development going on in the area. I attributed this to the beautiful natural setting surrounding the town. I was able to find the Brevard Music Center, a campus of music education set on a lake, in the shadows of the mountain ranges. Annually there are many events at the Brevard Music Center, such as the renowned Brevard Music Festival, which features nationally touring artists.
After leaving Brevard, I continued on Route 64 to Cashiers. Coming up to Cashiers, I must have passed four golf courses. Places that valued tee times so much they had posted signs on the side of the road prior to the entrance encouraging people to speed up to allow others to get to the club. It was a two sign set on either side of the road. The first sign read, “Pull over slowpoke, I've got a tee time.” The second, “Hurry up, my tee time is in three minutes.” Following each of the signs, there were pullover spots. As a tourist I felt this was a bit odd, especially considering the curvy nature of the road. Other than this, Cashiers was the quintessential mountain town with spectacular views. Several small eateries and tons of outdoor activities, from river rafting to llama tours.
I left Cashiers happy that no golfer had swung a nine iron at my head for driving slowly, and headed north to Sylva. Sylva is a small town on the edge of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. The first thing that strikes you when you are in and around Sylva is the beauty of the area. I was stunned by the size and beauty of the mountains, and through the day this feeling only continued to grow along with the size and scope of the peaks and vegetation that grows in great abundance and vitality everywhere. Sylva is a great little town with a Main Street set up that runs parallel to the mountain ranges in the distance. There are a number of historical buildings and the town's streets were spotless, and busy in the middle of the afternoon. Most of the buildings were brightly colored, lending an air of festivity to the town.
From Sylva I drove north to Cherokee and visited the Indian Reservation. It is home to Harrah's Casino. Due to its location on the Indian Reservation, Cherokee and Jackson County are, “dry,” meaning that alcohol is not sold. The Harrah's Casino on the Indian Reservation is a big economic pull for the area. There are countless hotels and restaurants catering to the tourists visiting the casino. In addition to the town's attractions, Cherokee is literally right on the borders of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. I entered the casino with the intention to play some cards, but found out the casino is all digital. The closest thing you can get to cards and chips are the digital black jack tables. The buffet was pretty good, however, and after throwing a few bucks into the slots, I headed back to the hotel.
The next morning I woke up and drove to Bryson City, which reminded me of an old western boom town. Bryson City sits alongside the Nantahala River and caters to the tourist industry the waters attract. There is a heavy presence of Native American culture in the town due to its proximity to the reservation. The town looked healthy and cozy with a little bridge crossing the river in the heart of the downtown and little shops, like Aunt B's Donuts. Many of the residents of the town were out walking about, many looked like they had the day off and were heading into the mountains for the day even though it was the middle of the week. After Bryson City, I headed back east, passing through Cherokee, on my way to Maggie Valley. Although it has a prime location, right next to the Great Smoky Mountain Park, there wasn't much of anything resembling a town. All I saw were strips of stores and gas stations along the highway, and so I passed through on my way to Waynesville.
Waynesville had the allure of Hendersonville, in a smaller version. Plenty of shopping lined the active downtown streets. The views from the town surpassed those of Hendersonville. At about any point in the town, you were able to look to the west or north and see green mountains in the distance. The town also had a number of grassy spaces where people were relaxing in the sun.
After walking around Waynesville for a bit, I headed back onto I-40 East past Asheville. Although I was tempted to get off and stay, I continued on to Marion. Once out of the mountains, the air started to heat up again. Marion is an old railroad and mill town, and the heritage is evident in the buildings and outskirts of town. Most of the town's buildings were a bit on the old side and the town itself was quite hilly. The signs of new development made me feel this town had some gems just waiting to be discovered.
Little Switzerland was the next place to see on the route. Heading there I got my first taste of the Blue Ridge Parkway. On it I saw some of the most impressive views of the whole trip. Traveling the local roads also affords similar views, but with worse road conditions. The Blue Ridge Parkway also has many camping and hiking options along the route. Little Switzerland turned out to be a little dot off the Parkway. Surrounded by a couple of golf courses, Little Switzerland was comprised of one block of about five stores. A new and used book store, a general store, and a couple of restaurants. Although it was in the heart of some of the most beautiful countryside I had seen so far, Little Switzerland seemed more of a stop on the way to other places, than a destination. Although, if you are looking for a quiet golf and outdoor vacation, Little Switzerland might be a perfect home base. I got back on the Parkway for a bit on my way north to Banner Elk.
Banner Elk is a town to the west of Boone. It was a small town with a couple of strips of stores, at the intersection of Routes 184 and 321. The shopping in the town was very quaint, made up of village style settings where many of the stores were connected. There was an excellent shop with many old bottles, and the people were very friendly. Banner Elk provides its residents and visitors with the perfect spot to access the mountains for winter skiing, and the town has a resort feel to it. There were a good amount of people walking around and shopping, as well. The roads in and out of town are a bit curvy, so visitors should check their proposed route with locals before heading out.
After navigating the road to Boone I strolled along the streets for awhile to get a feel for the town. Boone is home to Appalachian University and the schools presence is heavily felt in the town. A large section is devoted to the campus, and there were many college aged kids walking around and enjoying the sunshine. I walked up a bit of an appetite and stopped in at the Black Cat Kitchen for some dinner. While chatting with the extremely friendly staff I settled on a jambalaya burrito which was so big I had to use a knife and fork to eat it. As with most college towns, there was a good variety of services. Many shops were centered around outdoor recreation, including one with its own outdoor climbing wall. In addition, there were plenty of restaurants, night spots, galleries, and malls. Some of the sidewalks were covered which would be perfect for shopping in the rain.
Leaving Boone, I started the ride home, with plans to stop in the middle of the state to see what I had missed on the way out to Asheville. The first stop was at Blowing Rock, just south east of Boone. Blowing Rock is known for its assortment of artistic shops and galleries, and seemed kind of like Boone's ritzier, and slightly older cousin. If Boone was a town for college aged people, then Blowing Rock would be perfect for their parents. There were plenty of open air eating options, higher class restaurants, and galleries, with everything from home wares to paintings and sculptures. As with Banner Elk and Boone, Blowing Rock also enjoys a position ideal for outdoor entertainment, as it is actually located in the Pisgah National Forest.
Lenoir was next, and it was a town that reminded me very much of Marion. It appeared a bit older than most other towns, as though it had benefited a little less from the recent influx of development that many of the other towns in North Carolina have enjoyed. Although Lenoir was a little lacking in the pretty facades of some other towns, it had a good central business district and all indications that it would grow, given its convenient location north of I-40 and south of the Pisgah National Forest.
After a half hour's drive south on Route 321, I took I-40 East and stopped in Hickory. Hickory was a bit confusing to get around, consisting of many one way roads. Although the roads were busy, I found the town areas to be strangely empty. The downtown area looked clean and adequate, but there just weren't many people around. Still, Hickory has a good location off I-40 and its thriving furniture industry adds economic vitality and stability to the city. Maybe it was just a quiet day.
From Hickory I headed south a bit to see Charlotte. Charlotte is known as the “Gateway to the New South.” On the way down from Hickory, I had stopped at a visitor’s center for a map of the city which really helped in navigating the main areas I wanted to see. The city is beautiful. Getting there in the early morning the sun burned off the damp from the night before in a haze that lingered over the tops of Charlotte's impressive skyline. Many of the larger buildings in Charlotte are built with glass facades that create beautiful reflections through the city. The intersection of Tryon and Trade Streets is the center of the city's business district and is flanked by gazing statues and fountains. Following Davidson Street north out of the city center, I headed into North Charleston to visit the artistic district. It was a small set of streets with a couple of theaters, cafes, and restaurants, and overall is a very nice way to get out of the city without really leaving it, as the skyline in the near distance reminds you.
Leaving Charlotte, I took Interstate 85 north to see Winston-Salem which was my favorite of the larger cities in the middle of the state. I felt that Winston-Salem was better organized, easier to get around in, and seemed as though it was in a state of much better repair than Raleigh or Greensboro. Winston-Salem is known as the conservative business capital of the state and there were many business people walking through the streets. I walked around the business district for a bit, before driving around the arts and restaurant district. The arts and restaurant district was very interesting. I then headed to High Point.
Known as the furniture capital of North Carolina, High Point is home to the International Furniture Market. Some highlights included a four story dresser on the edge of town that once served as office spaces, a doll museum in the visitor's center, as well as a multitude of opportunities for getting factory direct prices on furniture. If you don’t get very excited over furniture, then High Point's intense focus may become a bit much for you. Consisting of one major strip of stores and offices that runs through the center of the City, much of the available real estate has been taken up by furniture manufacturers and stores. I did see some other options for entertainment, such as a community theater, but furniture reins supreme in this area.
After about a half an hour's drive from High Point, I arrived on the outskirts of Greensboro. The first thing that I noticed was the heavy traffic. I spent some time in the city, and enjoyed much of the architecture of the buildings. I saw many different museums. Greensboro ranks 16th nationally in dollars spent per capita on the arts. The unemployment rate remains high at six and a half percent, however this may change, due to the fact that in 2009, Federal-Express will open their Mid-Atlantic Hub in Greensboro, bringing in many new jobs. All in all I enjoyed Greensboro, it had an active downtown area and it was easy to navigate.
Upon leaving Greensboro, I had two more stops I wanted to make before heading north, Chapel Hill and Durham, names synonymous with prestige and colleges. I hit Chapel Hill first, home of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. After searching quite awhile for a parking space that wasn't illegal or reserved, I walked around the town. Chapel Hill was basically a typical college town, but with a much more grown-up feel. Many of the people were wearing collared shirts, and looked as though they were professionals, rather than students. The Chapel Hill nightlife scene revolves around Franklin Street and the surrounding areas which become quite busy in the evenings. Much of the campus was undergoing construction which caused some snafus in the flow of traffic. The area felt as though it was very well endowed and had an air of success to it.
Durham was the last town, and ultimately one of the biggest challenges. Duke University resides in the Durham area, and takes up quite a large portion of the real estate, spread out over a huge area. From the highways, there are several exits for different sections of the campus and all of the roads seem to lead into one another. After driving in circles for about a half an hour, I stopped at a gas station for directions. The clerk was more than sympathetic, explaining that he had lived in the area for several years and still became confused at times. Once I had my directions, I headed towards the city, expecting the same prestige that I had observed in the surrounding areas. Getting to the city, I was not as impressed with it as I had originally thought I would be. The poor layout of its streets continued to be a problem and the outlying areas were not well kept, there were vacant lots and run down buildings. While exploring the city, I noticed some attractive shops and restaurants. I made my way over to Brightleaf Square, a shopping and dining hub, which has hosted the Taste of Durham Festival. The Taste of Durham Festival is an annual event which brings together arts, music, food and drink from local and statewide sources for a celebration enjoyed by all. Durham has an excellent reputation, but I was still surprised by the lack of accessibility and condition of the areas on the outskirts of town.
Heading north on I-95, I had plenty of time to reflect on the past two weeks. I had seen some of the most incredible landscapes of my life and been to over 30 towns. The days had blurred together in a collage of restaurants, shops, gas stations, U-turns, farms, hills, mountains, lakes and bars of miniature hotel soaps, and I was looking forward to being home in NY. I found it odd I had now seen more of North Carolina than my own state. Through the trip, I was amazed by the variety of towns, cities and landscapes North Carolina had to offer. Not many states can boast of having the beach and the mountains with farmland and pastures in the middle, as well as large cosmopolitan cities and small towns with their charms in every region. I felt grateful for the people I had met along the way and thought fondly of a time when I could return to the places I had seen and loved.
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